Mad Dash to Mexico City

The day began at midnight in the tiny village of Jalcomulco when I purchased an airline ticket online from Mexico City to my next destination. I would have to leave Jalcomulco via local bus at 6am so it was off to my room to pack and get some sleep. At 3am I startled myself awake thinking for a moment that the 3:10pm flight may be 3am! A confirmation email check at 5am set me a bit at ease.

When I had asked various people in Jalcomulco how long it will take to get to Mexico City they all said between 5-6 hours. I would need to take a taxi from the Bus Terminal to the airport. But first I would have to transfer buses in Xalapa, about 1.5 hours away. The bus was ancient and shook violently. It clanked down the dirt roads making noises similar to the ascent of a wooden roller-coaster. Reliable, scary and a true workhorse... I guess this is why they continue to use them - they never die.

Upon arrival in Xalapa I asked the bus staff what the travel time is they said 4 hours. That made sense, the two combined bus times seem to be what I was told. I estimated I could arrive in Mexico City Terminal at about 12:30-12:45... 20 min to the airport would give me approx 2 hours before my flight.
Knowing that Mexico city is one of the largest cities in the world (with a population of about 20,450,000) I became concerned when at 12:30 I saw no city, just fields, mountains, and a volcano. By 1pm we had just cleared a mountain and started to descend into what seemed to be the start of a city. 1:50 we pulled into a large bus station where I scrambled through walkways and corridors to find a taxi.... the timeline is closing on my 3:10pm flight.

The taxi could not move fast enough in my mind, so, to make things clear, I explained the airport terminal I needed, "Terminal 2... terminal número dos... Dos!". The driver acknowledged reassuringly, and I was glad, because I could not see the terminal signs on the road. You can imaging my dismay when I exited the taxi, it sped off, and I came to terms with the fact that he dropped me at Terminal 1.

By the time I had made it to the other terminal and the check-in, my flight had been closed. It was now just before 3pm. The staff member that had informed me of my unfortunate situation must have taken pity... he spent the next 10 min attempting to slip me on another flight... success! (and at no extra charge)... hero of the day award goes to Aeromexico's Juan Carlos!  At 5pm I boarded a plane to Cancun.

DI "NO" A LAS PRESAS

There has been a proposal for four electric dams to be constructed in the area of Jalomculco and the neighbouring watershed. After my brief experiences on these rivers, and with the people of Jalcomulco I was sad to hear this news - but moved my the local effort to stop it.

On one of my last days in town the raft companies of Jalomculco and raft companies from the surrounding municipalities created a dam of their own... a dam of rafts. One after the other, trucks and vans trailed their rafts to the rivers edge. Locals came by foot, by bus, by car. A school band performed, officials from the village and spokespeople of the effort had an opportunity to take the microphone and speak their mind in protest and celebration of the rivers. Mike, a Canadian kayak videographer/filmmaker that had also being staying with Esprit for the last few nights was there to document the rivers and not only showcase how great a place it is to raft and kayak, but promote the rivers conservation... plus, add to the wicked and gnarly whitewater videos you can YouTube from Five2Nine! Mike interviewed Jim Coffey throughout the village and Esprit's efforts in protesting the dams and also got an opportunity to run a few rivers.

When the raft-dam was in place I moved to get a view from the nearby suspension walking bridge. A banner was passed over the rafts and the crowed chanted "DI "NO" A LAS PRESAS" - "DI "NO" A LAS PRESAS" - "DI "NO" A LAS PRESAS"! Some of the most amazing things you see traveling have nothing to do with the scenery.

Jalcomulco

In the Mexican state of Veracruz  there is a small municipality not too far from Jalapa (Xalapa)  named Jalcomulco. This tiny village acted as our base for the nights we were not camping while rafting. Jalcomulco is a place that caters to the adventure tourism of the area, rafting. With about 20 rafting companies based there it is literally the livelihood of this village.

While in Canada, I recall quite a few people remarking when they found out I was traveling to Mexico they would ask, "Are you sure you want to go to Mexico now, it's so unsafe." Aside from the fact that I do not usually subscribe to the hysterical North American media blowing things out of proportion, I have traveled enough to know that many of the people saying such things are not speaking from experience but rather rumour and tabloid headline BS. I would have to say that in Veracruz I felt completely safe and welcome. The people were hospitable and friendly, and even tolerated my fumbling sorry-ass attempts at Spanish. Anytime, day or night, and state of rafting exhaustion or late night out, I was constantly met with pleasant greetings and smiles.

I stayed for almost a week in the village to rest up and recuperate my sore back before continuing on with my travels. I spent many hours walking around the village over that week, and even hiked the surrounding canyon walls. On a trail that I crossed paths with more donkeys then vehicles I got a great perspective of the town (a birds eye view) on a steep hillside before hiking further up the canyon walls alongside a small pooling river/stream and scattered boulders. The temperatures in the canyon changed dramatically, one moment almost overheated by the sun, the next chilled in the dark deep cool shade of the mango trees imported and strewed everywhere decades ago.

One night a few of us walked to the edge of town to a temazcal, a Mesoamerica sweat lodge. It's dome shape constructed from volcanic rock and cement and clay where herbs and water are placed on HOT lava rock in complete darkness filling the room with aromatic steam. Led by the owner of the temazcal, we participated in song, shared various wishes and experiences and even shouted before exiting 're-birth-style' to the outside world - with cold water being poured over us as we stepped outside.

In the temazcal, the operator of Esprit Rafting (who has been working winters in Jalcomulco for over a decade) mentioned that with so much controversy regarding the drug wars in the North of Mexico, and the sad effect of a get-rich-quick criminal enterprise, it is truly a great thing to see a village being self sustained by a local industry. They have not only embraced, but excelled. He believes Jalcomulco could serve as a model of sustainability and and pride for any community - anywhere!
...I would have to agree.

Week Of Rivers and Wounds

Back in Canada I had done weekend trips up on the Ottawa River for whitewater rafting and kayaking. Esprit, the outfitters we have gone with also winter in Jalcomulco, Veracruz, Mexico. I dropped an email and signed up for a "Week of Rivers".

Day 1: Pickup by Esprit and a overcast drive followed by rainy drive into Jalcumolco.
Day 2: Tour of town and paddling the Antigua River
Day 3: Paddle the Actopan River
Day 4: Paddle the Barranca Grande - Put-in to Amititla
Day 5: Paddle the Barranca Grande - Amititla to Monte Blanco
Day 6: Paddle the Barranca Grande - The "Four IV's" and Pescados section
Day 7: Creeking on the Tomata River or Antigua/Ziplining

The first two days we paddled in two-man inflatable rafts (duckies)... with a couple impromptu swims both days. Day two on the Actopan started off with a blast. And by blast I mean a drop in our rafts off a 15 foot waterfall that drops at the start of the river. The location was beautiful, with water pouring out in streams and waterfalls from the walls surrounding us. Although I had received a pretty nasty bump on my hip from a rock the day before, I would soon get another whoop-ass to the body. The locals, to cross the rapids often create make-shift bridges by placing logs or downed trees over the river. We had scouted one such bridge and walked around because it was too low. The next one we thought we could clear. As we paddled close and ducked... it happened. The problem was that the rapids raised up on the other side of the large, so as the nose of the raft passed under it began to lift the front. I felt a massive whack to my helmet and was now swimming. While regrouping on shore I noticed my head did not hurt at all, unfortunately the middle of my back did.

The next three days was a camping trip in some larger rafts. Dosed up on Ibuprofen we set off and enjoyed rafting deep in a canyon travelling 70 km and dropping 2200 vertical feet before 'taking out' in Jalcomulco. The last day was technically the most challenging when withing an hour after leaving camp we hit a series of four class IV rapids. The trip was definitely more demanding and exhausting then those on the Ottawa river.

Another nice perk was that James Wier, one of the best whitewater open-boaters was staying with Esprit for the week and joined us for a few rivers, took some great photos, and entertained us with whitewater stories.

My last day I took it pretty easy. After some breakfast some of us took a few kayaks to the river and were given some paddling tips. Managed a roll on my second attempt (on flat-water)... after much explanation by the Esprit crew to get my uncoordinated and exhausted mind and body to follow instruction. Lunch and then Ziplining in the afternoon.