Jalcomulco

In the Mexican state of Veracruz  there is a small municipality not too far from Jalapa (Xalapa)  named Jalcomulco. This tiny village acted as our base for the nights we were not camping while rafting. Jalcomulco is a place that caters to the adventure tourism of the area, rafting. With about 20 rafting companies based there it is literally the livelihood of this village.

While in Canada, I recall quite a few people remarking when they found out I was traveling to Mexico they would ask, "Are you sure you want to go to Mexico now, it's so unsafe." Aside from the fact that I do not usually subscribe to the hysterical North American media blowing things out of proportion, I have traveled enough to know that many of the people saying such things are not speaking from experience but rather rumour and tabloid headline BS. I would have to say that in Veracruz I felt completely safe and welcome. The people were hospitable and friendly, and even tolerated my fumbling sorry-ass attempts at Spanish. Anytime, day or night, and state of rafting exhaustion or late night out, I was constantly met with pleasant greetings and smiles.

I stayed for almost a week in the village to rest up and recuperate my sore back before continuing on with my travels. I spent many hours walking around the village over that week, and even hiked the surrounding canyon walls. On a trail that I crossed paths with more donkeys then vehicles I got a great perspective of the town (a birds eye view) on a steep hillside before hiking further up the canyon walls alongside a small pooling river/stream and scattered boulders. The temperatures in the canyon changed dramatically, one moment almost overheated by the sun, the next chilled in the dark deep cool shade of the mango trees imported and strewed everywhere decades ago.

One night a few of us walked to the edge of town to a temazcal, a Mesoamerica sweat lodge. It's dome shape constructed from volcanic rock and cement and clay where herbs and water are placed on HOT lava rock in complete darkness filling the room with aromatic steam. Led by the owner of the temazcal, we participated in song, shared various wishes and experiences and even shouted before exiting 're-birth-style' to the outside world - with cold water being poured over us as we stepped outside.

In the temazcal, the operator of Esprit Rafting (who has been working winters in Jalcomulco for over a decade) mentioned that with so much controversy regarding the drug wars in the North of Mexico, and the sad effect of a get-rich-quick criminal enterprise, it is truly a great thing to see a village being self sustained by a local industry. They have not only embraced, but excelled. He believes Jalcomulco could serve as a model of sustainability and and pride for any community - anywhere!
...I would have to agree.