Friday, March 12, 2010

Boat to Siem Reap and Temples of Angkor

I took a 6 hour boat journey up the Tonle Sap River (a tributary to the Mekong River) and across Tonle Sap Lake to get to Siem Reap. The river ride was great and allowed for a glimpse of river life of the local people. Siem Reap is a city that borders an area full of massive temples (some dating back over 1500 years) and stretching over tens of square kilometers.

As the boat docked near Siem Reap I was offered a shared tuk tuk ride by some American (Alaskan) flight attendants I had met on the boat. They were a bit envious when they discovered that through my friend of Alex, I had arranged a deal at a five star accommodation.

The temples were very impressive. My first day visiting temples included Banteay Srey, East Mebon, Pre Rup, Ta Promh, Angkor Thom. Day two had an early pre-dawn wakeup to witness the sunrise over Angkor Wat before exploring Preah Khan.

Some temples have been cleared of the surrounding forest to reveal their weathered ruins, others have been left with the trees and plant life slowly reclaiming the site. In many cases stones have fallen and a mess of bricks and stone remain leaving a labyrinth of pieces to navigate as you make your way through the site. A few decades ago a daunting task of cataloging fallen pieces of stone from various temples that were to be secured and placed back into their rightful location was halted when Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge took over and stopped the restoration and destroyed the catalogued documentation. So, after surviving invasions and the attempt of mother nature to reclaim the land and after looters, museums, and collectors attempted to acquire artifacts in the first third of the 20th century and after a lunatic madman set on destroying the intellectual capital of the individuals restoring them in the late 1970s these temples have more of less survived… until that is the new danger takes hold. Masses of tourists trampling over the sites, bus loading areas and tourist shops, and all the garbage that they bring. Hopefully, as in other times the past, another balance will occur to preserve these places. As a person touring the area and in fact climbing all over the site, I was aware of the potential negative impact that I was contributing to and that the privilege could not sustained in the long run.

I decided on a mini-bus ride to return to Phnom Penh. The bus is very bumpy and unfortunately, after 5 hours sitting under the air-con I found that for the next couple days, that chill turned into a cold and worst of all, after over a month in a tropical climate, by body could not regulate it’s own temperature… cold and sweating in the heat of the night is a recipe for a few sleepless nights.

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