Finding My Mojo

Last year when I  was in Australia I  spent two days at Mojo Surf's "Spot X" camp (between Sydney and Brisbane). The weather was perfect and the waves were great. I was getting up on the board, turning and even rode in with a dolphin not far off my right side.

This year I thought I'd do the same so I signed up for a 5 day surf trip from Byron Bay to Sydney. However, the one thing I had no control over was the weather. A couple of cyclones had passed through in the days and weeks before and there was still some pretty major storms off the coast causing very rough conditions.

The instructors attempted to lift our spirits explaining that we would become "white water warriors" due to the fact that there were so many waves that the water from the break to the shore was a white wash of foam, spilling waves and currents. One missed wave could often carry you back to the shore but 30 meters from where you entered. Far more difficult then the year before and we all had bruises, rashes and bumps to prove it.

It was still a blast and the 20+ people in our bus played in the waves by day and partied into the night with drinking games, bonfires and some tunes cranked... then we had to get up at the crack of dawn to do it all over again.